Monsieur Potato Head

What is it about the French and potatoes? This lowly tuber is a national obsession (what other country would name a metro station after Antoine Parmentier, the man who brought the potato to France in the 18th century). Just have a look at the 81 (count ‘em) pages of potato recipes in the famous Larousse guide to cooking; Gratin Dauphinois, Pommes Duchesse, Pommes pont neuf, Gateau de pomme de terre, Pommes boulengere the legendary pommes frites, etc, etc.

Not only that, but the regions outdo themselves preparing a myriad of regional specialities; raclette, tartiflette and the extraordinary ‘Aligot’. Otherwise known as the ‘ribbon of friendship’, this dish is a combination of local ‘Tome’ cow cheese and potatos, whipped together into a glutinous and fattening version of mashed potatos. The epitomy in comfort food. And the best thing about it is how it is eaten; around a table, scooped out in big stringy portions. The first string being wrapped on your head if you happen to be a Aligot ‘virgin’.

When in France make sure to travel to Aubrac – a wild region in central France and eat at ‘Chez Germaine’ ( Places des Fetes in Aubrac. Tel: 05 65 44 28 47) for the true Aligot experience.

Here are 3 great tips for cooking with potatoes:
- when making mashed potatos scrape the boiled potatoes through a sieve instead of mashing – it gives them the perfect texture
- if you are including potatoes in a soup, go light on the quantity so as not to make your soup too starchy and glutinous
- choose the right potato for its purpose. It makes all the difference in the end result. In general the higher the water content the better for frying. The lower the water content the better for baking. Here are a few guidelines to help you choose the correct variety.

General types:
A. Long white: A thin-skinned, all-purpose potato with firm, waxy texture.

B. Round white: A thin-skinned potato with firm, waxy texture; best for boiling and frying.

C. Round red: A thin-skinned potato with firm, waxy texture; good for boiling.

D. Russet: A thick-skinned potato with dry, mealy texture; good for baking and frying.

E. Purple: A violet-purple potato with purple meat and dry, mealy texture; for baking and frying. Retains its color when cooked.

F. Yellow: Several varieties with golden, thin skins, creamy yellow meat, and smooth texture; good for boiling and frying, some for baking. Mildly buttery in flavor, they are sold as Finnish Yellow, Yellow-Rose, and Yukon Gold.

G. New: New potatoes are those that haven’t been stored and are usually small. New red potatoes are widely available, but other varieties are appearing in more markets.

Specific varieties:

Accord - wedges
Belle de Fontenay - potato salad
Cara - chips, roast
Carlingford - wedges
Charlotte - potato salad
Desirée - roasted, potato dauphinoise, all-round use
Estima - boiled, baked
Harmony - boiled
King Edward - chips, roast, potato dauphinoise, all-round use
Marfona - boiled, baked, wedges
Maris Bard - new potatoes
Maris Peer - potato salad
Maris Piper - chips, roast, all-round use
Nadine - mash
Nicola - potato salad
Osprey - boiled
Premiere - new potatoes
Rocket - new potatoes
Romano - wedges
Rooster - roast
Sante - chips
Saxon - mash
Vivaldi - baked
Wilja - mash

This little piggy had coq au vin

You can tell a lot about a culture by its nursery rhymes and lullabyes. After all, this is how children have been taught cultural norms and heritage for centuries. And it is clear from this very early beginning that French 'citoyens', no matter how tiny, are imbibed with the food culture that will surround them for the rest of their days.

It has amazes me as I bring up my children in France that almost every nursery rhyme has something to do with food. From the lyrics 'The neighbors have bread, but not us' in the French equivilent to 'Ring Around the Rosey', to the mentions of eating pate in the morning, making 'pigeon pie' or even the sung recipe for 'galette' (where the children shout out that you need butter for a good galette), food seems to make its way into every one of these culturally telling rhymes.

To enjoy these wonderful lullabyes and rhymes I suggest a book and CD called 'Les plus belles comptines anglais et francais'. It is a great collection of English children’s songs that are matched with their French counterparts. The songs are beautifully done, there is a book with translations and even all the movements (such as to ‘This Little Piggy’). My kids listen to this CD endlessly – and for one I don’t mind when they say ‘Play it again Mama’.

http://www.amazon.fr/belles-comptines-anglaises-livre-audio/dp/2278053140/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1242298455&sr=8-5

See for yourself if the English aren't always singing about the rain and the French about food and kissing!